Art upstairs

In recent years, Athens has seen an intriguing shift in its art scene. Many of the city’s leading galleries are moving away from traditional storefront spaces on busy streets, opting instead for apartments in the upper floors of Modernist buildings and old townhouses. This change is about more than just a financial practicality – it reflects a desire to create a more intimate, “home-like” environment, fostering deeper connections with a more discerning audience.

One of the most exciting newcomers to this trend is the renowned Michael Werner Gallery. Established in Berlin in 1963, the gallery opened with Georg Baselitz’s debut exhibition and has since expanded across Europe and the U.S., representing such prominent names as Per Kirkeby, Marcel Broodthaers, Peter Saul and Issy Wood. Now, it has found a home in Athens. The gallery’s Athenian branch is located near the Athens Conservatory, a stone’s throw away from major cultural institutions such as the Benaki Museum, the Museum of Cycladic Art, the Byzantine and Christian Museum, and the National Gallery. Its inaugural exhibition,“Faithfully Represented,” features the work of Polish-born, London-based artist Barbara Wesolowska, who took the title of her show from a phrase in Freud’s “The Interpretation of Dreams.” Wesolowska, who grew up on church property on a Polish island, describes her childhood as having taken place “literally inside the church.” That deeply religious environment shaped both her artistic palette, inspired by the deep reds and gilded golds of Polish Gothic cathedrals and Byzantine icons, and her desire to evoke a sense of transcendence as she invites viewers to connect with her paintings by drawing on emotions and memories. -Xenia Georgiadou

Celebrating Cycladic women

The many roles of Cycladic women from prehistory to the 19th century are being brought to life by spectacular exhibit items such as the Archaic Kore of Thera (early 6th century BC), paintings, post-Byzantine icons from Amorgos, golden jewelry from Sikinos, and other figurines and vases, some of which have never been presented to the public before. The exhibition “Kykladitisses: Untold Stories of Women in the Cyclades” explores the lives of companions, mothers, worshipers and warriors, focusing on both the compromises imposed by their societal roles and their achievements in a male-dominated world. -Xenia Georgiadou

Echoes of Magna Graecia

Step back in time with the Acropolis Museum’s captivating temporary exhibition, “The Ancient Civilizations of Basilicata: Treasures Emerging to Light.” Until January 26, 2025, visitors can uncover the rich heritage of Basilicata, a region in Italy that ancient travelers knew as Oenotria, the “land of vines.” This crossroads of cultures, central to the early Greek colonization of Magna Graecia (southern Italy in antiquity), is alive with stories of migration, trade, and cultural fusion.

The exhibition showcases over 300 artifacts – dazzling gold ornaments, intricately decorated ceremonial vessels and finely crafted weapons – all unearthed from ancient burial sites. These treasures date from the end of the Bronze Age (11th century BC) to the 6th century BC, offering insights into the interactions between Greek settlers and indigenous Italic peoples.

Beyond the artifacts, the exhibition invites contemplation of the human experiences they represent: the rituals, exchanges and shared creativity that shaped this pivotal period in Mediterranean history. Housed in the ground-floor Temporary Exhibition Gallery, the exhibition is free to visit, with guided tours every Tuesday in English providing deeper insights from museum archaeologists. Don’t miss this chance to explore the intersections of history and artistry that defined an era. -Duncan Howitt-Marshall

The return of Hermes

Athens, a city where antiquity and modernity coexist in a delicate dance, has once again rendered up a treasure from its storied past. During routine excavation work to install a natural gas pipeline on Erechtheiou Street near the Acropolis, an extraordinary discovery was made: a remarkably well-preserved marble statue of a nude male figure, reminiscent of the Hermes Ludovisi. Hidden for centuries within a brick enclosure, the statue has emerged as a powerful reminder of the layers of history that lie just beneath the surface of the city’s modern streets.

Elena Kountouri, head of the Ephorate of Antiquities of Athens, believes this is just the beginning. “It’s likely part of a larger ensemble, perhaps connected to the House of Proclus or another significant complex of the era,” she said. The statue’s apparent relocation in antiquity suggests efforts to protect it during turbulent times, a poignant testament to the enduring value placed on art and culture.

The gas installation project has been halted temporarily and the discovery has reignited pubic interest and excitement over the splendor of Athens during Late Antiquity. As this ancient Hermes emerges from its resting place, it serves as yet another reminder that Athens is a city built on, and inspired by, the grandeur of its past. -Dimitris Rigopoulos

West meets East

“Ghika’s entire life was a journey,” notes Ioanna Moraiti, curator of the Ghika Gallery Archive. Though he spent much of his life in Western cities, the artist’s lifelong dream of exploring Eastern cultures came true in 1958. The exhibition “Ghika: A Journey from West to East” traces the impressions left on the artist by the traditions and arts of Japan, China, India, Cambodia and Egypt through letters, notes, watercolors and sketches. -Xenia Georgiadou

The power and passion of “Los Caprichos”

Francisco Goya (1746-1828) lived through one of the most tumultuous periods in European history, witnessing the Enlightenment; the decline of the Ancien Régime; the French Revolution; the Napoleonic Wars; and the restoration of absolute monarchy in Spain. Amidst these monumental events, Goya spearheaded a transformation in painting, infusing Spanish art with a revolutionary spirit. A defining moment in his career was the creation of “Los Caprichos” (1797-98). In this work, Goya broke free from the constraints of official commissions, channeling the full maturity of his artistry. Drawing on contemporary life, he explored darker aspects of Spanish society, exposing human folly and vice while delivering a scathing critique of the oppressive structures of his day, including the Church. In 1962, under the visionary direction of Marinos Kalligas, the National Gallery acquired a later edition of the series – all 80 etchings and aquatints, from 1803. As of January 2025, visitors in Athens can view this extraordinary collection, as well as reproductions of the artist’s preparatory sketches. -Maro Vasiliadou

Wild at Art

Brass pheasants, stone owls, frenzied bulls, dogs, dolphins, iron eagles, calves and deer made of bronze are set to take over the grounds of the National Glyptotheque. While animal sculpture has been a recurring theme throughout art history (the Parthenon frieze alone depicts over 220 animals), modern Greek sculpture has primarily focused on the human form. The exhibition “The Farm” showcases works by Greek sculptors Yiannis Antoniadis, Bella Raftopoulou, Antonis Karachalios, Nikolaos Dogoulis and Frosso Efthymiadi-Menegaki, who all turned their artistic gaze on animals. Spanning the period from 1940 to 1970, the exhibition traces the evolution of art from realism to abstraction. -Xenia Georgiadou

Dalí all around

Step into a dreamlike world at the Dalí Cybernetics exhibition, an immersive experience that surrounds you with the stunning masterpieces of the legendary Surrealist artist Salvador Dalí. Projected seamlessly onto walls and floors, his iconic works shift and flow, inviting you to interact and lose yourself in their surreal beauty.

In addition, visitors can dive deeper into Dalí’s world through documentaries about his life, wander among reproductions of his iconic art, and even embark on a VR journey using a headset. -Panagiotis Koustas

A story of love and loss

Romeo Castellucci takes an abstract approach for his interpretation of Jean Racine’s five-act verse tragedy Bérénice, one of the most important works of modern dramaturgy. Titus and Antiochus, two rulers competing for the heart of the Queen of Judea, move silently against a surreal background, leaving only Bérénice (played by Isabelle Huppert) to communicate the essence of love: tenderness, madness, deceit, loss and cruelty. The production features music by Scott Gibbons and costumes by Iris van Herpen. -Xenia Georgiadou

Bright ideas

In the early 1960s, Chryssa began using neon as a sculptural medium, drawing inspiration from Manhattan’s traffic lights and glowing storefront signs. She was not alone. Stephen Antonakos, Yiannis Bouteas, George Lappas and Takis are all part of a generation of artists who developed their creative practices around the theme of light. Focusing on color, reflections, light and shadow, the exhibition “It Empties, It Fills, the Light” brings together works from the postwar modernist period with contemporary explorations by Greek artists. -Xenia Georgiadou

More than a stay

Okupa is a reimagined hotel and cultural hub that invites both locals and travelers to connect, create and unwind. Blending nostalgic late ’70s and early ’80s design with a modern ethos of inclusivity, it offers a refreshing take on hospitality.

Start your day in the airy lobby, where communal tables invite you to enjoy your morning coffee or catch up on emails. For moments when you need a peaceful escape, head to the library, stocked with books and magazines. There are even soundproof booths providing privacy, and a serene and leafy garden, a peaceful oasis amid the urban buzz.

Okupa embodies the concept of an “open hotel,” where luxury is defined by freedom of expression. The menu at the restaurant and bar changes through the day; sophisticated shared plates replace light Mediterranean bites as evening falls. Curated music nights, artist performances and lively workshops transform the space into a true cultural platform.

The hotel champions sustainability, too, hosting pop-up markets spotlighting conscientious local creators in a space that keeps Athenians connected to the world even as it reveals the city’s authentic soul to visitors from around the globe. -Nena Dimitriou

Always cool in Kolonaki

Kolonaki Square, the heart of Athens’ most upscale district, will be a construction site for the next few years, as work on the metro progresses. However, the surrounding streets, with their mix of elegant boutiques, chic cafés, fine dining restaurants and exciting art galleries, more than justify a visit or two. The latest neighborhood hotspot is tranquil Spefsippou Street, named for the great philosopher and mathematician Speusippus, Plato’s nephew and successor. The street’s charm lies in its elegant interwar-era apartment buildings, which lend a sense of timeless sophistication to the area. Start your exploration at Dexameni Square and head to No. 1 Spefsippou. Brasserie Lorraine, on the ground floor, has a warm, old-world charm and serves comforting French dishes with a modern twist; it’s an ideal spot to linger on a cold winter’s day On the fourth floor of the same building, you’ll find the showroom of Stefania Frangista, the Greek fashion brand renowned for its coveted swimwear collections and its high-quality, stylish resort wear. Every piece is made in Greece, and the company has a strong commitment to sustainability and eco-friendly practices as well.

At the corner of Spefsippou and Loukianou Streets is Iodio, a new restaurant that’s already earning kudos for its creative culinary approach. Chef Georgiana Hiliadaki serves fresh fish and seafood in exciting and inventive culinary combinations. Expect Greek dishes reimagined in unexpected ways, such as the fish youvarlakia (a twist on traditional meatball soup). -Vlasis Kostouros

Fit for a Queen

Tucked away in Ilion in western Attica, the Queen’s Tower Estate is like a royal dreamscape, where lush vineyards and enchanting gardens frame a neo-Gothic tower built by Greece’s first king, Otto, for his beloved Queen Amalia. Inspired by Bavaria’s romantic castles, this little-known gem near Athens has been lovingly preserved by the Serpieri family, who have now opened its doors to visitors eager to experience its unique blend of history, beauty and flavors.

The tour begins inside the tower, an architectural marvel of battlements that also boasts Greece’s most exquisite parquet marquetry. Rooms are trimmed in royal blue and gold, with arched windows that gaze out onto statues, fountains and colorful parakeets perched in palms that have graced the grounds for over a century. The gardens extend across fragrant orchards and vineyards, where you can almost taste the past in every bloom and breeze.

A stroll through the estate reveals flourishing vineyards producing wines for sale that are exclusive to the property. A visit might include a sophisticated wine tasting, where you’ll sample organic reds and whites paired with artisanal cheeses, homemade pies and decadent chocolates, all in the original stables that once housed Queen Amalia’s exotic animals. It’s a sensory journey fit for royalty – a secret Eden just beyond the city. -Nena Dimitriou