On the northwestern side of Mount Parnassos, life flows at a much different pace than in the famous Arachova. No longer a well-kept secret, Vargiani has gained its own following, sharing the spotlight with nearby Agoriani, offering a peaceful escape from the tourist crowds. This is a place where nature reigns, free from traffic jams and the frantic rhythms of commercial tourism.

Once a satellite settlement, Vargiani has become a destination in its own right for those seeking more authentic experiences and a slower pace of life. Its privileged location makes it an excellent base for activities and excursions.

Perched at an altitude of 900 meters, with stone houses and winding alleys, Vargiani offers spectacular views of surrounding fir forests, creating a scene that seems straight out of a postcard. The village’s idyllic charm even caught the attention of the production team behind the 1977 television series The Village Photographer,which was filmed there.

Over time, the village, once abandoned due to urban migration and emigration, saw a revival. City dwellers seeking a mountain retreat began to rediscover Vargiani, partially repopulating it. Respectful restoration efforts followed, along with the construction of new stone houses that served as vacation homes, making the village an increasingly popular stop.

With a population of only around 40 residents, Vargiani remains charmingly small, with chimneys puffing smoke and a handful of guesthouses and taverns enhancing its appeal. For a taste of the local atmosphere, head to To Scholio, a cozy café housed in the village’s old school building, where steaming drinks await. The village square, home to the Church of Aghia Paraskevi, is a lovely spot to relax, and the Bournboulas springs – with their six flowing fountains – ensure the village’s waters never run dry. The only inconvenience, on weekends, is the occasional car blocking the narrow alleys.

The most beautiful hike you can take in Vargiani, weather permitting, is to Neraidospilia (Fairy Cave) – one of the most stunning trails and caves on Mount Parnassos. The journey takes about 2.5 hours and requires hiking shoes and some experience (or a guide), as parts of the trail are exposed. Depending on the season, the cave transforms into a water-filled wonderland, offering breathtaking sights with its stalactites and stalagmites.

A more accessible route, through the forest with its running waters, is the one leading to the chapel of Prophet Elias. Accessible via a forest road, the route takes about 45 minutes and is much easier to navigate.

If skiing is high on your list, you’ll need to drive about 40 km (approximately 1 hour) to the Parnassos Ski Center. However, if you’re based in Vargiani, there are other exciting activities to explore. You can go rock climbing at the Kokkini Stegi (Red Roof) climbing field, which offers about 30 routes, or try the Proinadiko field, featuring easier routes ideal for children. For a more adventurous climb, head to the Baroutospilia Gorge, located between Lilaia and Mariolata, where the Miliopaida and Nikolas Grigoropoulos fields offer 22 routes.

Alternatively, visit the ancient walls of Lilaia in the nearby village of the same name or explore the unique Vagonetto Mining Park (by appointment: Tel. (+30) 22650.788.19) to learn about the region’s mining history with a tour of Tunnel 850.

Whether you’re enjoying the scenic routes around Mount Parnassos or venturing into the surrounding villages, Vargiani is ideally located for exploring the natural beauty of the Giona mountain range and its villages.

In Vargiani, you’ll find two guesthouses: Arxontolithos (Tel. (+30) 693.218.5848) and Ifigenia (Tel. (+30) 22650.910.71). 

For dining, in addition to the appetizers at To Scholio café (Tel. (+30) 22650.919.51), you can visit the Zervas Tavern (Tel. (+30) 693.699.9380), known for its excellent grilled meats (liver, beef steak, pork belly), pies, and slow-cooked dishes such as tender pork shank and wild boar stew.

For guided tours, including trips to the unique Neraidospilia (Fairy Cave), or for rock climbing and skiing lessons, you can contact mountain guide Tzortzis Milias (Tel. (+30) 694.463.6179).