Why Go in the Spring?

The answer to that is simple: to witness the Messinian landscape at its most beautiful, with olive trees, strawberry trees and tree heather in full bloom. These, together with walnut and almond trees, wildflowers, aromatic herbs and native plants, create a unique spring setting around the precious ruins of the ancient city. What’s more, you can avoid the summer heat.

What to Do There

Wander through the 400-acre archaeological park of Ancient Messene, where restored monuments await. From the Ancient Theater and the Agora, well-marked paths will guide you to the Gymnasium, the Palaestra, the Stadium and the Mausoleum. The work of a lifetime from archaeologist Petros Themelis has turned Ancient Messene into a one-of-a-kind open-air museum that reveals the details of daily life in ancient Messinia. In the public baths, you’ll see ancient coins; on the Gymnasium’s steps, you can spot inscribed games of tic-tac-toe.

From the spring through the fall, the Archaeological Park hosts a variety of events such as concerts and exhibitions. The site and museum are open daily from 08:00-20:00 (summer hours). Entry: €10. Info: Tel. (+30) 27240.512.01.

While most visitors arrive by car, there’s also a scenic trail you can take to Ancient Messene. It begins at the central square of the village of Manganiko and passes through olive groves to reach Andromonastery, a beautifully restored Byzantine monastery. The trail then continues through countryside dotted with strawberry trees, tree heather and plane trees until it reaches the entrance of the archaeological site. The whole trail is eight kilometers long and takes no more than two and a half hours on foot. It’s easy to walk and has minimal elevation changes.

What If I’m Up for More Adventure?

Mount Taygetus, the highest mountain in the Peloponnese (2,405 m), is perfect for road trips that offer diverse natural scenery. From Kalamata, drive up to the Taygetus Tourist Pavilion at 1,350 meters above sea level, a scenic 34-km drive that offers great views of the mountain. If you prefer a seaside excursion, Kyparissia is 41 km from Ancient Messene and Pylos is 62 km away. On the way to Pylos, you can stop at the Polilimnio Waterfalls.

Dishes You Must Try (and Where)

Local cuisine is, despite the proximity to the sea, mainly meat-based, although you will find seafood such as tsiladia, cod in tomato sauce with onions and raisins, along the coast. Other traditional dishes include vegetables cooked in generous amounts of local olive oil. Some signature dishes are:

• Gournopoula (roast pig)
• Kagianas (scrambled eggs with syglino, local cured pork)
• Tsouchti, a local pasta dish served with mizithra cheese and egg
• Messinian salad, a green salad topped with sfela (semi-hard local sheep-and-goat cheese) and orange slices.

Near the archaeological site, Ithomi Tavern (Ancient Messene, Tel. (+30) 27240.512.98) has nice views of the site itself and serves oven-roasted pork, salads with fig, raisins and pasteli (sesame bars), and grilled meats. Stou Kosta (in the village of Bournias, behind the Kalamata Industrial Park, Tel. (+30) 27210.839.57) offers traditional kagianas with cured pork; sausage stuffed with sfela; and spinach with black-eyed peas. Grilled meats and fresh fish are also on the menu. At Vagias Taverna (48 Kallipateiras, Kalamata, Tel. (+30) 27210.291.18), Messinian cuisine is celebrated with dishes such as stewed zucchini blossoms, pickled bulbs, sfela cheese, kagianas and local sausage. For authentic gournopoula, visit I Gournopoula Grill House (3 Aghiou Dimitriou, Bournias, Kalamata, Tel. (+30) 27210.939.93), where every piece is served with crispy skin and fries.

Where to Stay

Since accommodation near Ancient Messene is limited, it’s best to focus your search in Kalamata.

• Grand Hotel Kalamata (37 Navarinou, Tel. (+30) 27216.001.60), a luxury hotel built on the site of the historic “Amerika Hotel”, offers sea-view rooms and suites.
• Garden City Resort (52 Kritis, Tel. (+30) 27210.897.00) is a modern boutique hotel with great value rooms.
• Kalamata Mediterranean Villas (Tel. (+30) 27210.231.24) offer well-kept villas and suites in various neighborhoods of Kalamata, ideal for privacy.

Don’t Leave Without Buying

Figs and pasteli, lalagia (fried dough twists), diples (fried pastry) and, of course, olives and olive oil – all available at many spots, including the Central Market of Kalamata. You’ll also find wild greens and baby artichokes from Taygetus, Kalamon olives, and other local fruits and vegetables.

For sfela cheese, look for Petropoulos Store (Kalamata Central Market, Tel. (+30) 27210.271.93), and for cured meats and sausages, try Schinas Store (same market, Tel. (+30) 27210.228.69). Next to the indoor market, Kalamata’s open-air street market sets up every Wednesday and Saturday.

A Tip

Ancient Messene is very popular, especially with foreign visitors. If you’d rather not get up too early to be there at opening time, opt for a late-afternoon visit, just before sunset. Keep in mind that the archaeological park is large, and you’ll need at least two hours to explore it properly.