The birthplace of brass bands, a source of inspiration for acclaimed filmmaker Theo Angelopoulos, a city with a rich tradition in the visual arts, and a vibrant university town, Florina is well worth the journey – even during the chilly winter months.
Start your exploration with a stroll along the tranquil banks of the Sakoulevas River. The riverside road is lined with grand neoclassical buildings, including the Metropolis of Florina. This area holds a unique part in cinematic history: in 1991, it was the site of protests by supporters of then-Bishop Avgoustinos Kantiotis against the filming of Theo Angelopoulos’ The Suspended Step of the Stork. Angelopoulos, captivated by Florina’s misty, melancholic landscapes, chose the town as the setting for seven of his films, seamlessly weaving its atmospheric charm into his narratives.
Follow in the director’s footsteps to his beloved Diethnes (78 Megalou Alexandrou, Tel. (+30) 23850.235.85). Steeped in old-world charm, this charming cafe has hardly changed over the years. Settle in by the cozy wood-burning stove, and savor a cup of coffee, a glass of tsipouro, and hearty meze.
Florina’s pedestrian streets are a food lover’s paradise. Known for its red peppers, the city’s signature dish is kebapia – small, tender kebabs made from a blend of three types of minced meat, grilled to perfection over charcoal. For a taste of this local specialty, head to Koukoutsi (28 Megalou Alexandrou, Tel. (+30) 23850.460.10), Klossa (3 Dimarchou Papathanasiou, Tel. (+30) 23850.238.61), or Aposperitis (6-8 25th Martiou, Tel. (+30) 23853.007.94).
In the afternoon, immerse yourself in Florina’s thriving arts scene, starting from the Museum of Contemporary Art (8 Tagmatarchi Fouledaki, Tel. (+30) 23850.294.44). Established in 1977 by the Florina Art Society, this museum is housed in a beautifully restored neoclassical building and boasts a remarkable collection of over 700 works by both Greek and international artists, including masterpieces by Chagall, Moralis, Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, and Chalepas.
The city’s creative spirit has been further invigorated by the establishment of the School of Fine Arts in 2006, whose influence is evident throughout Florina. For example, at Megalou Alexandrou Square, you’ll encounter one of the city’s most distinctive landmarks: “Contralto,” the whimsical statue of a bear playing a double bass. Created by local artist Giorgos Bardakas as part of his thesis project at the Department of Visual and Applied Arts, this striking piece greets visitors at the city’s entrance.
As evening falls, make your way to Aerino Wine Bar (9 Grevenon, Tel. (+30) 23850.448.97), where you’ll find an exceptional selection of Greek wines, including 30 varieties available by the glass, perfect for pairing with curated platters of local cheeses, cured meats, and other meze. If you’re lucky, you might catch a live performance by one of the local ensembles, such as the iconic Banda of Florina, the Valkanis brothers’ brass band, which continues the local musical tradition with a touch of Balkan flair. Keep an eye on their Instagram page for upcoming performances (valkanis_brass_band_florina).
Florina also makes an excellent base for nearby excursions. The Vigla-Pisoderi Ski Center, located just 19 kilometers away, opens early each winter season, thanks to its abundant snowfall. The picturesque, protected traditional village of Nymfaio is only 26 kilometers away, while the charming town of Amyntaio, known for its wines, is just 31 kilometers from the city. For a slightly longer – but always rewarding – excursion, you can make the trip to the breathtaking Prespa National Park, where you can immerse yourself in a stunning sanctuary of natural beauty and tranquility.