One hundred and sixty kilometers west of Thessaloniki, the Amyntaio plateau is surrounded by the imposing mountains of Vermio, Vitsi and Kaimaktsalan. The plateau is composed of mountainous landmasses and two lakes, Vegoritida and Petron, offering the ideal terroir for wine grape cultivation. With dry summers and sandy terrain above a limestone layer, the region’s climate and geography are ideal for vineyards. In fact, the entire plateau was once a lake.  This particular region, which reaches a maximum altitude of 750 meters, was declared the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Amyntaio zone in 1972. It produces rosé, red and sparkling wines comprised of Xinomavro, a red grape variety that usually yield wines with high acidity, plenty of tannins and the potential for aging. The wine- producing region includes nine wineries with a total of 22 PDO labels. It’s also the largest producer of sparkling wines in the country, and can boast of having preserved some of the oldest Greek grapevines, over 100 years old and unaffected by phylloxera. 

Haute gastronomy

In three villages close to Alpha Estate there are restaurants that promote local gastronomy and the produce of the land. The restaurant Kontosoros is undoubtedly the leader. It’s located in the village of Xino Nero, where the natural sparkling water of the same name is produced. Among the traditional family recipes here, the sout makalo (beef meatballs in a thick saffron roux sauce) is a stand-out. The name comes from the word “maka”, which in the local tongue means “to dunk.” West of Zazari Lake, in Sklithro, the Paspalis family has been running the Thomas restaurant since 1951, serving regional culinary delights. These include multicolored pulses, mushrooms and batzos, a semi-hard white cheese usually made from goat milk.

Towards Vegoritida, a lake with impressive heron colonies, you’ll find Naoumidis, whose menu is based on delicacies from the lake. Try the langoustine in red sauce, and the grilled carp. Chef Angelos Naoumidis also organizes lake excursions (Tel. +30 23860.612.38), which include fishing and cooking. His brother Petros Naoumidis creates special gustatory products at his organic pepper farm, located near the restaurant. Since 2008, he’s been making products using a bilocular pepper, the platika, which has a sweet flavor and an intoxicating aroma. His green pepper pesto and piperokama, a spicy sundried pepper spread, are bestsellers worth stocking up on. 

Yiannakochori 

Although approximately 90% of Kir-Yianni’s wines are produced at the sister winery in Amyntaio, Stellios Boutaris envisions transforming the landmark winery in the Yiannakochori area into an international destination, with Xinomavro as the star. With a glass of Ramnista, the company’s celebrated Xinomavro, in hand, he guides us around the winery’s new spaces that include an open-plan kitchen, shop and a wine-tasting bar. At the same time in the patio spaces, young children are watching a musical fairytale about the lifecycle of the grapevine. The estate offers visitors a variety of experiences within the winery itself, as well as in the vineyards, such as bicycle rides, picnics and hiking trails. 

In Yiannakochori it is also worth visiting organic wine producer Kostas Kelesidis’ estate. In addition to Merchali, a rustic version of Xinomavro, he produces a white wine called Evodeas, which is a blend of Malagousia and Xinomavro. You can enjoy these organic wines with meze at Krasta, a nearby grill house (Tel. (+30) 23320.513.88). Opt for one of the house specials: cow head (with tongue) or pork brisket. 

Gastronomy & culture 

At Naoussa’s restaurants, you can taste the local cuisine and native wines in pairings that seem made in heaven. Spondi (Tel. (+30) 23320.222.33) serves haute cuisine with delicious meze; you must try the gavropsara, pickled eggplant ribbons coated in flour and fried in hot oil. At Oinomageiremata (Tel. (+30) 23320.235.76), a traditional taverna famed for its slow-cooked lamb, ask the owner if you can try his cellar-aged wine. 

Of course, Naoussa isn’t just known for its wine; there’s plenty of culture to be had as well. It’s impressive how such a small place has so much history and art. First inhabited during the Roman period, it has a rich industrial past as in the 19th and 20th centuries it was a center for the textile industry. Visit the Genitsaroi and Boules Society (Tel. (+30) 23320.226.71), housed in a traditional listed building in the city center near the watermill, to learn about the famous carnival tradition. You should also drop in at the hotel Palea Poli to admire the paintings of local artist Giorgos Badolas. Wandering the alleys of the town, you may notice that modern art has the power to transform entire neighborhoods: artist Alexandros Tsakonas and other international participants in the Naoussa Urban Art Festival have turned Naoussa into an outdoor art museum, with their works decorating the facades of multiple buildings.