The rugged and windswept landscape of Laconian Mani, with its stone tower-houses, shimmering blue sea, aromas of herbs and wildflowers, is the perfect backdrop to the solemn customs and traditions of Eastertime.
On Holy Friday, head to Karavostasi, where the candlelit procession of the Epitaphios (a decorated wooden bier representing the funerary bier of Christ) takes place beside the sea. Alternatively, choose the Church of Taxiarches at Areopoli, where the Epitaphios is carried through the narrow cobblestone streets to the accompaniment of a marching band. The same church is also a good choice for attending the Resurrection service late at night on Holy Saturday. The fireworks and firecrackers here are in greater number here than in other parts of Greece, as the sky above the stone-built church erupts with loud bangs and bright bursts of a color; an amazing spectacle.
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Short and longer excursions
Most visitors come to the villages of Laconian Mani in summer for the beaches and sun. But spring, when temperatures are more friendly, is the ideal time to explore the settlements and nature. The villages are sparsely populated, with the exception of Areopoli, the main town of Inner Mani.
The settlement is laid out around the large square with the statue of Petros Mavromichalis, aka Petrobey, a famous Maniot commander in the Greek Revolution of 1821, and has been designated a conservation site on account of its traditional architecture and imposing tower houses. One of these, the Pikoulakis Tower (Kapetan Matapa, Areopoli, Tel. (+30) 27330.295.31, 08:30-15:30 daily except Tuesday), houses a small museum with a permanent exhibition titled “Stories of the Religious Faith of Mani,” presenting the development of religious belief in the region through a collection of historical finds, icons, books and inscriptions.
© Visualhellas.gr
The coastal village of Limeni, which serves as Areopoli’s harbor, is another traditional settlement. Here you will find the historic tower-house of the Mavromichalis family, which today operates as a hotel (Mavromichalai). Castles, tower-houses and gorgeous locations with amazing views await discovery on foot, as you make your way along sweet-smelling spring paths.
From Karavostasi, follow the well-kept Kelefa footpath, which will take you to the ruins of the castle of the same name, built by the Ottomans in 1670. Another pleasing route leads from Areopoli to the village of Sotiras and, from there, to the chapel of Profitis Ilias.
If you prefer getting around by car, drive from Areopoli for 33km until you reach the village of Vathia, a collection of impressive tower-houses dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. The settlement has been abandoned, but the landscape of tall stone houses is one of the most characteristic in all Mani.
