We had already chosen the location of this summer’s bicycle tour in October of last year. Gregoris Papakanderakis of the “Saints” team was once again in charge of the planning, this time focusing on Central Macedonia. The plan also included a mountain crossing in Bulgaria, near the border. Following last year’s Pindos trip, this year promises more kilometers but less elevation gain. So, around lunchtime, in keeping with our tradition of starting on the summer solstice, we loaded the bikes into Gregoris’ car and set off for Thessaloniki, accompanied by great company and high spirits.

At Lake Skra

We took a commemorative photo early in the morning before cycling down the Axios River. Our first destination was in Aspros, a village where many storks build their nests. We headed northwest and encountered the first hills near Axioupoli. In Fanos, we stopped in a small park, when a wasp stung me as as I was drinking from a fountain. Fortunately, our portable first-aid kit always contains antihistamines and cortisone. One of our team members, Panagiotis, is a doctor, so we didn’t have to worry. After waiting half an hour in case of an allergic reaction, we continued through the forest, with the sun already high in the sky.

A large sign welcomed us to Skra. In 1918, during World War I, the Greek army heroically captured fortified Bulgarian positions on the hill of the same name. A museum dedicated to the battle operates in the village. Weekend groups finished their dinners in the square’s tavernas, where music blended with the hum of cicadas. We continued to Lake Skra, which is a few kilometers from the village. Hidden in the forest, it is fed by crystal clear waters, but taking a dip seemed unwise because the water was freezing. Even though there was not enough water for the waterfalls due to the season, their traces were visible on the smooth rocks. The steep descent to the lake turned into an exhausting uphill ride on the way back, but only for a short while. We stopped in the village for food until the midday heat subsided, and returned to our bikes after refilling our water bottles.

The road worked its way up through oak forests interspersed with fields full of cherry trees laden with ripe fruit, ready to be picked. Approaching Archangelos, we sought refuge in a cherry processing plant, where we were warmly welcomed and refilled our water bottles. As the sun sank, the road ascended to a plateau with wheat fields amidst the woodland. When we got to Livadia at nightfall, we switched on our lights. A few more turns took us into a thick forest filled with thousands of fireflies, which illuminated our way to Goumenissa, turning our ride into a truly magical experience.

Doirani, Kerkini, Agistro

At dawn, we make our way down to Polykastro, where we stop for sandwiches and coffee. Continuing on, we pass through gentle hills where harvested fields give way to sunflower crops, all facing the same direction like a concert audience. We pass Platania and Pontoiraklia, skirting the border, and reach Metamorfosi. A pack of stray dogs jumps in front of us, barking, but the water pistol I brought along effectively wards them off. In Elliniko, we detour to Korona for a water resupply. In the café, locals express disappointment over the abandoned border villages and the lack of young people. We arrive at Akrita after taking the only border dirt road we came across on our journey. The route then ascends between fields, and as it curves downward, Doirani appears on the horizon. The border of North Macedonia is marked by pillars and a large flag. We pass the customs office and proceed parallel to the lake.

I leave the main road and enter a dirt path leading to the shore. Careful steps are necessary here, as you can easily sink into the mud. A brief detour to the café “1000 Trees” provides a chance to rest beneath the plane trees shortly after. We continue at a brisk pace along a flat route with increased traffic. Under the blazing sun, we turn toward the village of Kerkini, near the lake that bears its name.

This area is home to many bird species and is ideal for bird watching and boat rides due to its unique ecosystem. The area became well-known after Theo Angelopoulos’ film “The Weeping Meadow” was filmed there. We try delicious specialties made from local buffalo in the courtyard of the “Eco-Tourist” guesthouse and spend the afternoon watching the birds from the small harbor’s benches. Once it cools down, we are back in the saddle and end the day in Agistro. The village is famous for its baths, which promote health and relief from rheumatic disorders and other ailments.

Crossing into Bulgaria

At dawn, we descend to the border and enter Bulgaria. The road is lined with shops and casinos, while in the opposite direction, a queue of cars waits to cross into Greece. We leave the main road at Chuchuligovo and take a country road through villages with a distinctive Balkan charm. We stop for coffee in Katuntsi before continuing along a wooded riverbed, climbing towards the dam at Gorno Spanchevo. This marks the beginning of a long ascent. The forest thins out into shrubland, providing little shade. Although the road is busy, it is not narrow enough to be dangerous. At the Pirin intersection, there is a spring. From here, the shade provided by the forest, and the lower temperature make cycling much more pleasant.

Having already covered 50 kilometers, we stop at the last spring for a rest. It is a popular spot, with drivers stopping for water, a group with horses quenching their thirst, and even a pair of Greek motorcyclists. The final 5 kilometers to the highest point at Popovi Livadi (1420 meters) are particularly enjoyable, with spectacular mountain vistas. We take a photo of the statue of Gotse Delchev, a national hero of Bulgaria, before starting the long descent through the forested slopes. However, the descent ends quickly, and the heat returns.

We arrive at Ano Nevrokopi (Gotse Delchev) around 4:00 p.m., and the temperature is really high. We enter an air-conditioned grocery store and are reluctant to leave its cool refuge. We depart the town, cycling in a line along the busy road, and an hour and a half later, we reach the Exochi border crossing. The border guards offer us water, and we eventually reach Kato Nevrokopi in the late afternoon. Further down, at the Volakas junction, the fatigue starts to take its toll as we realize we still have 9 kilometers to go. The final blow comes from the successive signs indicating a 10% upward gradient. I dismount, push the bike, remount, and repeat this process several times as night falls.

Climbing the switchbacks, the large scars of the Volakas quarries become visible on the mountain. We encounter a few herds, with the water pistol at hand, but pass without incident. Late at night, we finally reach the first houses of Volakas.

The Plains of Drama

After such a long day, we needed some extra rest. We have breakfast in the square before we take the road to Drama, which is busy with traffic and suffocating with fumes. We rest in the large, tree-filled square of the city, named after the word “Hydrama” due to the abundant springs. However, the morning delay, the coffee in the shade, and the ice cream we enjoy before we leave have set us back, and as we head out into the plain, the midday temperatures are already rising. We take a break in a park in Mavrolefki before continuing.

The oppressive heat forces us to stop every 10 kilometers, first at a gas station and later at a bus stop. At 40 degrees Celsius, cycling becomes dangerous, even though we keep hydrated with water and sports drinks. By the afternoon, we reach Amphipolis, where we collapse under the giant lion statue, hoping to draw some of its strength. The final coastal kilometers to Asprovalta are a breeze. Before heading to the hotel, we go straight to the beach, where a dip instantly relieves the day’s strain.

Cycling in Holomontas

Before dawn, while the city sleeps, we eat handmade cheese pies, and with the first rays of sunlight, we cycle towards Olympiada. The narrow, winding route requires attention due to lush vegetation that obscures turns. As we climb, the forest becomes more impressive. Everything seems idyllic, except for the number of insects. Wasps of various sizes attack us whenever we stop, drawn to our sweat, and a swarm of gnats hovers about us on the sluggish uphill stretches. We have to ride with one hand while swatting them away with the other to keep them out of our noses and eyes. I encounter a spring, but it’s crawling with wasps, so I just take a photo and leave. This challenging experience ends two hours later, just before the descent begins.

We roll down to picturesque Neochori for coffee and an excellent herb pie. Shortly after, we buy fruit from a traveling grocer to replenish our vitamins. We continue past Palaiochori and Arnaia, then turn left into the heart of Holomontas. The hills become steeper, but we are enchanted by the alternating forests of pines, oaks, firs, and beeches. We are in the university forest of Taxiarchis, a research area for students and a destination for nature lovers. 70% of Greece’s Christmas trees are grown here, which benefits the local economy. The view of Halkidiki’s “legs” from the summit is one-of-a-kind. We descend towards Taxiarchis and Vrastama, passing Vatopedi before entering the crowded route to Metamorfosi, which requires extreme caution, especially during the summer when visitors are on the move.

After five days of riding, 634 kilometers, and 8,900 meters in elevation, the trip ends with a dive into the cool waters of Halkidiki. We are left with a sense of adventure after this unforgettable experience, which marks the beginning of the countdown to the next bicycle excursion.

Thanks to Gavrilos Georgiadis and the Criterium store (Tel. (+30) 210.285.5210) for the service, cycling equipment, and advice.