Lefteris and his Soft Pretzels

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How and why “koulouri” became our national snack Multigrain, with sesame or without, with tahini… “Tomorrow I’ll have wholemeal; the kind you skinny girls favor.” Lefteris Agorastos, whose cart is permanently parked beside one of Athens’ busiest streets, sells about 50 koulouria, a Greek type of soft pretzel or bread ring, every day. Hailed as a “national snack” or “street breakfast,” simple and cheap at just 0.50 euros, you can…