Like summer cinemas, some dining venues have become associated with the hottest season of the year. When, for example, Balthazar opens its garden, widely considered to be one of the city’s most attractive, and “embracing” an emblematic neoclassical former manor house on Tsocha Street, there is no doubt that summer has indeed arrived! As an added… bonus, celebrity chef Christoforos Peskias is at the helm of the kitchen this year, while for the first time, a second restaurant – Freud Oriental – is operating in the same space as a sort of shop-in-shop.
We visited Balthazar for the launch of its new menu, so we had the opportunity to taste plenty of creations from both restaurants. Strangely enough, despite the barrage of so many different flavors, most dishes left a strong, distinct memory. We began of course with the Japanese fare, specifically delicate shrimp tempura with vegetables and a platter of assorted maki and nigiri, some classic and others unexpected, which will certainly have sushi lovers smiling. But the stand-out was the marinated sea bream sashimi, a dish with all the aromas of the sea, light yet at the same time satisfyingly rich.
“ To me, life without veal stock, pork fat, sausage, organ meat, demi-glace, or even stinky cheese is a life not worth living.” – Anthony Bourdain, American chef and author
Moving on to the main dishes and the gustatory world of Christoforos Peskias, it became immediately apparent that he has put together a menu celebrating the finest quality of ingredients, an aspect that reflects his personal take on Greek fusion cuisine. One example is the Cycladic style fish ‘n’chips, with fish caught in the Aegean, an exquisite dish that in no way brings to mind a fry-up; another is the beef tataki with lime-celery dressing and almirikia greens, perhaps the gentlest way to treat a wonderful cut of beef. The salads are equally mouthwatering; we singled out the quinoa with smoked salmon, and the buffalo mozzarella with grilled cherry tomatoes. Throwing calorific concerns to the wind, we just couldn’t say no to the anthotyro cheese gnocchi amatriciana with siglino salted pork from Mani. But the stars of Peskias’ menu are the beef tagliata with chimichurri (Argentine sauce made of finely chopped parsley, minced garlic and white vinegar) and the beef spare ribs with hot Peruvian sauce.
Service at the restaurant is excellent. In contrast, service at the bar could do with some fine tuning.
