September brings lingering summer warmth, but here in Pelion, a soft, pleasant rain begins to fall, providing a balm for the land. The earth revives after the heat, the trees appear greener, and the air fills with the scent of damp cobblestones and soil. “It rains like this often, even in August,” say Yiannis Koutroulis and Katerina Golia, the owners of the café Irthame kai Desame (meaning “Just what we needed!”), where we found shelter.
This is the Pilio we know: dense forests blocking out the sky, fruit trees offering their bounty, giant ferns (so abundant that locals found ways to incorporate them into their cuisine), and ivy wrapping tightly around ancient plane trees in ravines and village squares. What would Pilio be without its lush vegetation? Less popular, I suspect.
Of course, Aghios Lavrentios isn’t among the most popular destinations, which adds to its charm. It’s filled with historic mansions, slate roofing, fountains, and narrow stone-paved alleys. Time appears to stand still in this community of 140 residents, only 20 kilometers from Volos, with no traffic going through the center and no tourist stores spoiling its beauty.
Aghios Lavrentios, once a prosperous market town, was named after a monk, Lavrentios of Mount Athos, who erected the monastery we see today in 1378 on the site of an older one (the monastery is occupied by three nuns and open to visitors).
Aghios Lavrentios is a quiet place, except during the August summer festival, when it earns its nickname, “The Music Village.” Musicians, both teachers and students, come for workshops and performances, filling the streets with music.
For the rest of the year, it’s the perfect escape for a relaxing weekend. Don’t miss the sunset from Hatzini Square, which offers a view of both the mountains and the sea. Explore the surrounding nature by hiking the trail to Aghios Vlasios (about 40 minutes), where you’ll find the chapel of Aghios Ioannis nestled in a ravine with natural rock pools.
Another trail leads to the nearby village of Drakeia (also about 40 minutes). If you prefer, you can also experience the natural beauty on horseback with IppOasis riding tours (Tel: (+30) 697.371.8928).
Aghios Lavrentios is located 348 km (4 hours) from Athens and 231 km (2 hours and 50 minutes) from Thessaloniki.