A golden nectar glimmers in its jar, rich and luminous. When the chill of winter sets in, it crystallizes into a creamy, velvety blonde spread. This is Frygana Honey, an extraordinary treasure from the wild lavender fields of Serifos. The honey exudes the vibrant aroma of wild lavender, a fragrance that saturates the island every spring. The nectar of this fleeting bloom, a flowering that lasts only two months, is meticulously harvested by the bees from Nikos Kokolakis’ 233 hives, which stand at an elevation of 400 meters in Aghios Panteleimonas. Sheltered against the northern winds, these hives produce one of the most exquisite honeys of the Cyclades, a product that was recently recognized for its excellence at the 17th Gastronomos Quality Awards.

This rare honey undergoes a special journey. After being collected, it is processed in the first and only cooperative organic honey standardization facility in the Cyclades, established in 2018 in Serifos. With stringent quality checks conducted by the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki’s Apiculture Laboratory, the honey is packaged in small jars. Each jar carries a guarantee of authenticity, local origin and unparalleled quality, ensuring the purity and integrity of the product.

A Beekeeper’s Remarkable Journey

Nikos Kokolakis, a member of the Serifos Agricultural Beekeeping Cooperative, embarked on organic beekeeping on his own. With no family tradition to guide him, Kokolakis was nonetheless able to transition from a successful career in audio engineering to follow his love for nature. Leaving behind a prominent role at the Hellenic American Union in Athens, he embraced a quieter, more fulfilling life in the buzzing world of bees.

His journey began modestly, with three small hives on the slopes of Mount Hymettus. Countless hours of observing bee behavior, combined with seminars at the Institute of Agricultural Sciences in Athens, stoked his passion. He also discovered a talent for macro photography, capturing mesmerizing images of bees in action. His photos have gained international recognition, winning awards in Slovenia and featuring in a special stamp series by the Greek Postal Service.

In 2019, Kokolakis moved his hives to family lands on Serifos, under the guidance of the experienced beekeeper Dimosthenis Diamantis. Nestled in the hills of Agios Panteleimonas, far from the island’s more humid regions, Kokolakis established a thriving beekeeping operation. He restored a group of traditional seasonal shelters used by farmers and converted them into a modern beekeeping facility and honeycomb storage.

The Cooperative Revolution

Choosing to use the Serifos honey standardization facility marked a pivotal moment for Kokolakis’ business. By adhering to strict production protocols, members retain their unique branding while ensuring the highest standards of quality and authenticity. Every jar of honey undergoes rigorous analysis, from pollen count to biodiversity mapping, providing consumers with a premium, trustworthy product.

Despite initial skepticism and some resistance from local beekeepers, the cooperative has proved transformative. Certified by the prestigious Aristotle University of Thessaloniki, the facility guarantees that every jar contains exactly what it promises – a pure and exceptional honey.

A Taste of Serifos

Frygana Honey is a true masterpiece, derived overwhelmingly from Lavandula stoechas, a wild lavender species that thrives in Serifos. (Its lavender pollen content ranges from a robust 60% to an extraordinary 90%, making it a truly rare delicacy.) This honey offers a full-bodied sweetness with a subtle tang.

At present, however, this extraordinary honey faces existential threats. A devastating fire on the island has scorched much of the lavender pastures. Combined with climate change, uncontrolled grazing, and the pressures of tourism, the ecosystem supporting wild lavender is in peril. The challenges are mounting for Serifos’ beekeepers, who are fighting tirelessly to preserve their craft.

As Kokolakis stated during his acceptance speech at the Gastronomos Awards ceremony, “Without rain, there are no flowers. While the Cyclades may dazzle with their beaches and nightlife, their primary sector remains neglected. Few realize the rare ecosystem hidden in these islands. Every year, wild herbs, crucial to bees, are lost to fires and climate shifts. If only more people could experience the springtime lavender fragrance and the summer thyme-covered hillsides, they’d understand what we stand to lose.”

The 17th Gastronomos Quality Awards shone a spotlight on the unsung heroes of the Cyclades – producers such as Kokolakis, who honor tradition while preserving the region’s unique ecosystem. At this crucial moment in the islands’ history, these individuals remain steadfast, crafting exceptional products that celebrate the Cycladic way of life.

This article was previously published in Greek at gastronomos.gr.