Plaka is a living palimpsest, a stratigraphy of human history etched into the heart of Athens over millennia. At its heart is a unique city block, nestled beside Hadrian’s Library and bordered by Adrianou, Areos, Kladou, and Vrysakiou streets. Here, 18 buildings – ranging from modest dwellings to grander historical structures – stand as silent witnesses to time’s passage. These structures, expropriated decades ago but thankfully never demolished, have been meticulously restored by the Ministry of Culture after years of dedicated efforts. This little-known enclave, known as the “Courtyard of Miracles,” evokes the spirit of Iakovos Kambanellis’ famous play, hinting at the vibrant, colorful lives once lived within these walls. 

Next to these old houses stands the humble chapel of Aghios Elissaios, where the celebrated writer Alexandros Papadiamantis is said to have chanted hymns. Just steps away are the remnants of the Late Roman city wall, the ruins of the early Christian basilica of Aghios Thomas, and the Chomatianos Logothetis Mansion from the late Ottoman period, where it is said Lord Elgin packed the Parthenon Sculptures before their removal from Greece.

Elena Melidou, Director of the Museum of Modern Greek Culture, and Eleni Papathoma recently welcomed me for a private first tour of Athens’ newest cultural treasure. After a leisurely walk that stretched over several hours, I left with a deep appreciation for the care and dedication that went into creating this rich portrait of Greek life, spanning from the mid-18th century to the 1970s. The curators left no stone unturned in their exploration of daily life: from what people wore and ate to how they worked, what they believed, and the items that filled their homes.

It was no small task to carefully select 3,000 artifacts, large and small, that would tell this story across 4,000 square meters of exhibition space. Each of the old houses in the museum complex held its own surprises. As we moved from room to room, the displays unfolded around distinct themes, including ancestry, religion, food, labor, clothing, housing, tools, and the everyday objects that made up the fabric of daily life. 

In every display case, I discovered something that resonated with me, from simple jugs and cooking pots to intricate embroideries, shadow theater puppets, religious icons, and even an entire room devoted to the paintings of Theophilos Hatzimihail. Theophilos, a key figure in early 20th-century Greek folk art, left a lasting impact on modern Greek culture, and his vibrant works are a highlight of the collection. Alongside these artifacts were digital applications, videos, and interactive spaces designed for children, offering immersive “walkthroughs” that invite visitors of all ages to engage with history in a meaningful way.

What stood out to me most, however, was the extraordinary collection of textiles, as though Greece’s entire history had been woven into their threads. Among the pieces on display were dowry linens, liturgical vestments, tablecloths, nightgowns, wedding dresses, overcoats, and even garments crafted from parachute fabric during World War II.

There’s no better way to spend a weekend with your children now that the weather has turned colder. Not just to teach them about the plow or the kilim, or to show them a traditional water jug, but to reconnect them with the value of craftsmanship through pottery, embroidery, and metalwork – and all tucked away in a charming maze of staircases, courtyards, and rooms, offering a sense of discovery with every turn.

At last, the old Museum of Greek Folk Art – one of Athens’ oldest museums, founded in 1918 and originally housed in the neighboring Tzistarakis Mosque before moving to Kidathineon Street – has found its perfect new home. With a fresh name and renewed spirit, it now invites visitors to experience its collection in a setting that truly honors its rich heritage.

This article was previously published in Greek at kathimerini.gr