I’m breathless, though I can’t quite tell if it’s from the demanding ascent or the stunning vistas that open around me. On one side lies the Aegean Sea, while the other reveals the entire shoreline of the Evian Gulf, the rugged contours of neighboring Xirovouni, and lush forests of fir, chestnut, and plane trees. Towering at 1,743 meters, Dirfys at Delphi offers a breathtaking panorama that captures mountains, sea, cities, villages, bays, and wild cliffs in a single, awe-inspiring frame.

Yes, the climb is a challenging one, winding over steep and rocky terrain – no wonder it attracts both mountaineers and alpine ski enthusiasts. However, you do not need to climb to the summit to appreciate this view. A slightly less dramatic but equally beautiful view awaits at the mountain pass or the “Michalis Nikolaou” Refuge, perched at 1,120 meters, which is reached by a dirt road.

Steni is an excellent hiking destination, surrounded as it is by the Aesthetic Forest, which is crisscrossed by trails leading to Dirfys and Xirovouni. But that is just one facet of Steni. The village itself is a perfect day trip for winter enthusiasts, those seeking respite from summer heat, and fans of its renowned grills.

Nestled in the small ravine that inspired its name, Steni – Upper and Lower – exudes a distinct charm that captures the essence of modern Greek reality while retaining the unpretentious character of bygone eras. Alongside the nouveau-riche residences of the 1980s and even some more recent developments, there are old stone houses – renovated or in ruins – that stand next to unattractive buildings from the 1960s and 1970s that were constructed with low-quality materials. Even though Steni has always taken pride in its natural beauty and flowing waters that nourish its numerous fountains, rather than its architecture, a stroll through its neighborhoods is still enjoyable.

Most visitors gravitate toward the central alley that leads to the square, which is lined with attractive coffee and pastry shops, or the main street, where barbecues sizzle beside stalls brimming with honey, preserves, pasta, herbs, and an array of local goods. For nature enthusiasts, the mountains beckon with opportunities for hiking, motocross, and mountain biking along scenic forest trails. Adventurous souls tackle the rugged cliffs of Xirovouni or challenge themselves at the Kampia climbing center. Meanwhile, others find solace in the cave-like chapel of Aghia Kyriaki, drawn by the allure of its holy water. In Steni, everyone has a pilgrimage to make, each path leading to a unique experience.

Steni is 107 km (about 1½ hours) from Athens.