Life
The Wines of the Midnight Harvest
At Domaine Vassiliou, the wine harvest is carried out at night in order to keep the vineyard’s grapes fresh and crispy, essential for an excellent wine.
It is eleven minutes to midnight. The light in the sky above the eastern Attican town of Koropi never darkens as the light poles along the Attiki Odos freeway beam a touch of redness into the atmosphere.
The glow serves as a constant reminder that Athens is not too far away, yet it is not quite strong enough to suffice for grape-picking at night – as odd as this may seem. The workers at Domaine Vassiliou winery, wearing head torches for the harvest, look more like coalminers as they pick their way through the vineyard. Domaine Vassiliou is the only winery in the area that harvests at night. The reason for picking grapes at such an unusual time has to do with the temperature. Usually at around 18°C this time of year, it keeps the grapes firm and crispy. Picked this way, they make it to the press in the best possible condition, producing higher-quality wine.
It is probably not widely known that the Messogia, which surrounds Athens airport, is one of Greece’s most ancient and richest winemaking region. Attica’s vineyards, the white Savatiano grape being their flagship variety, have a history that stretches back more than 3,000 years.
Sotiris Gkinis, an associate and owner of the neighboring Aoton Winery, agrees. “But things have been changing in more recent years. If you’re not able to offer added value to what it is you are doing, then there’s no point in pursuing it,” Gkinis says.
George Vassiliou, third-generation winemaker at Domaine Vassiliou
A vineyard harvest is a tough workout for the body. It is hard and strenuous work, even more so when performed at night. Observing the workers as they slowly progressed through the vineyard to unburden the grape-laden vines one by one, it becomes apparent that all senses must be particularly alert when harvesting at night. To compensate for this lack of vision, workers need to pay more attention to their sense of touch. Despite the difficulties entailed in this approach, both Vassiliou and Gkinis have no doubts about the results.
“Up until the 1980s, when the harvest was something like a celebration in which the whole family took part, every household had a wine grape press. But the abundance of vineyards in eastern Attica ended up proving detrimental. Everybody was mostly concerned about quantity rather than quality. Many producers would supply must to Athenian tavernas. They didn’t have the know-how at that time. Old barrels were used, which produced oxidized wines,” explains George Vassiliou, a third-generation winemaker at Domaine Vassiliou.
“Top wines are created at the vineyard stage. When you taste the grapes while they are still in the crates during harvest, the thick and crispy skin immediately confirms they are in excellent condition, which means that good wine results can be expected,” Vassiliou explains.
The midnight harvest at Domaine Vassiliou took five nights to complete, while the grapes gathered will produce a limited-edition Savatiano.
The matured results of previous harvests of this slightly neglected and underrated grape variety should confirm to any wine lover that Attica is capable of producing top-level wines. Until then, Vassiliou and Gkinis will carry on with their endeavors.
“Vineyards are like observing a baby grow. They are come into this world, grow to become children, teenagers, adults and then get old,” says Vassiliou. “But they never die.”
INFO
www.vassilioudomaine.gr • Τel. (+30) 210.662.6870, (+30) 210.662.7686
www.aoton.gr • Τel. (+30) 210.664.2347, (+30) 694.459.1258
