Souvlaki’s glorious history began in 1924, when Isaak Meraklidis established the first souvlaki shop, Aigyptiakon, in Nikaia. Uncle Isaak, an Armenian from Adana (known for its kebabs), came to Piraeus as a refugee. He changed his name from Misak Anispikian to Isaak Meraklidis and became famous for his kebabsOthers followed in his footsteps, opening shops in Keratsini, Korydallos, Drapetsona, and Piraeus port. While many of these historic souvlaki shops have closed, some continue to carry on their founders’ traditions, and new ones are constantly opening.

The souvlaki shops in Piraeus that I prefer are authentic, old-fashioned, and usually off the beaten path. They serve delicious souvlaki wraps with secret red sauces, make their own meat patties, and grill them to perfection. M.P.

Kohili

I have sat behind stacks of souvlaki wraps from Kohili dozens of times. Their souvlaki is small enough to fit in the palm of your hand, and comes with fluffy, dry pita bread and a special red sauce that’s spicy without being too hot. They also add thinly sliced onion mixed with parsley, and tomato. They don’t use tzatziki and they ask if we want fries (which we decline). They also serve lean pork skewers, kebab, meatballs, and chicken skewers, all handmade and grilled over charcoal. Every time I eat one, I count my blessings. N.M. 

Panagiotis

According to the sign, “If you want souvlaki, meat portions, fries, please say it before your turn,” to avoid misunderstandings. I vote for “meatball” without hesitation.  However, the tzatziki is layered on top, similar to whipped cream on a cake, which is cute but ineffective in terms of distribution. One wrap by Panagiotis Lavkiotis is never enough. N.M. 

Enty

Hovsep, an Armenian, opened the shop in 1946, and it is now run by two other Armenians, Vangelis and Stavros, who have worked there for many years. Their pork is made from tenderloin and they only use onion in their patties. I recommend that you order your souvlaki without fries and only add tomato, parsley, or onion to the pita. You eat standing up or sitting on stools, and you can also order to go. It’s a small, proper souvlaki with no oil, sauces, fat, or bells and whistles – just the aroma of charcoal. This is, in my opinion, the ideal souvlaki. Enty’s. N.D. 

Aris

This neighborhood souvlaki shop stands out in Rentis’ Eleftherios Venizelos Square neighborhood, despite the fact that its plain sign is barely visible. Aris has no seats; you must eat your souvlaki standing (which I recommend if you want it hot), take it to go, or have it delivered if you live nearby. “One wrap with gyro, please,” definitely without fries because they aren’t great, even though the gyro is handmade and delicious. Aris prepares it every day in the shop. The large soft pita also contains freshly made tzatziki, the right amount of tomato, thinly sliced onion, and their homemade red sauce. I like how he adds salt at the end and ask for extra hot red pepper – a delight. M.P. 

Polyvios

The oldest and most traditional souvlaki shop in Drapetsona is Polyvios, located behind the Papaioannou bridge and the church of Aghios Dionysios. The shop was initially opened by Polyvios Silvestros in 1935; it is now run by his grandson, also named Polyvios, who is carrying on the tradition. “Let’s go to Aghios Dionysios for souvlaki portions,” was the saying among souvlaki lovers in the 1980s, when Polyvios was at its peak. Souvlaki portions were a very popular way to serve souvlaki in the neighborhood: two pitas, with meat, tomato, onion with parsley on top, and nothing else. The tzatziki and freshly cut fries were served separately. Nice and simple. They prepare everything from scratch using ingredients sourced from local businesses. You have to ask for fries, tzatziki, or yogurt.  Polyvios makes the sausage the same way his grandfather did, but he doesn’t share the recipe; he also serves kebab, small round meatballs, and pork. The butter he adds to the pitas after they’ve been grilled, an idea of his grandfather’s, is what gives them their distinct flavor. They don’t do this at any other souvlaki restaurant. M.P.

Rodopolis

Two large and soft grilled pitas are placed on a small plate, topped with well-cooked kebab that melts in your mouth, tomato, and onion, and drizzled with the sauce, which leaves an unforgettable aftertaste. It is made using a secret recipe that they will not share. Spicy or plain, the sauce is to die for. The wrap contains only meat, tomato, onion, and sauce; no tzatziki or fries, and this is not up for discussion. The shop is located on a quiet street off Anapafseos, between Drapetsona and Keratsini. The decor is reminiscent of a mountain retreat, with wooden paneling on the walls and framed landscape paintings. The plastic tables and chairs among the many basil plants on the sidewalk fill up quickly in the evening. They don’t deliver, but they do offer takeout. M.P.

Giorgos

Giorgos is a cool and airy shop on the corner of Gounari and Nikita streets, in the Piraeus market.  Their recipe is a classic, with a well-made meatball, peppery pita, tomato, and sauce, bringing back memories of Sunday meals in the countryside with your grandparents. N.D.

Serkos

It’s worth visiting Neraida Square in old Kokkinia, not only because it’s neat and pretty, but also to enjoy the delicious sausages and the fluffy, soft, juicy kebabs at Serkos. Serkos is no longer alive. However, the grill he built to cook his amazing kebabs is still going strong, now taken over by his daughter Anni and his son Avedis. Whatever you order, such as lahmacun, pork souvlaki, chicken, etc., is delicious. Don’t fill up without trying the kebab. It’s fluffy, soft, and juicy, made with beef and lamb, and served on a pita with only salt and pepper. M.V.

Avraam

Avraam, Karabampas, and Polyvios were the three “forefathers” of souvlaki in Drapetsona. They created a tradition, and each had their own following. In the times before delivery, Piraeus residents considered going to Aghios Dionysios for kebab and “black” sausage a proper outing. Avraam opened in 1938. The owner, Avraam Savvidis, was a Pontian from Istanbul. His daughter continued the business, but it has since been sold, though the food and atmosphere have remained unchanged; the large hall with wooden paneling on the walls and the simple courtyard are ideal for those who want to remember or relive old family outings. The portions are generous, as are their souvlaki wraps, which come with fluffy and oily pita that is the perfect balance of crispy and soft, soaked in delicious juices. The kebab is juicy and oily. As previously stated, it is also famous for its “black” sausage. Unfortunately, the fries were pre-cooked. Ch.T.

Aigyptiakon

According to some accounts, this is where the history of souvlaki in Athens begins. Misak Anispikian left Asia Minor before the Catastrophe of 1922 and traveled to Egypt before arriving in Nikaia in 1924. Here he opened the first souvlaki shop, Aigyptiakon, introducing the kebab and his version of Arabic pita bread, which he developed with the help of a baker from Nikaia. The shop has moved several times over the years, but Misak’s successors continue the tradition in a new location. They prepare wraps using pitas from the traditional Hasiotis workshop and juicy, handmade kebabs from beef and lamb. Try their delicious homemade falafel too. G.P.