This text is part of the article “And the Living is A-Z”, published in Greece-Is Athens, Summer 2018 Edition. By Paulina Björk Kapsalis, Maria Coveou, Nena Dimitriou, Alex King, Maria Korachai, Pagona Lipsati & Alexandra Tzavella.

Monastiraki’s Ifaistou Street is lined with dozens of shops selling souvenirs and sandals, but among all the tat you can also find the real thing: authentic Greek sandals handcrafted from real leather that will last a lifetime, if you treat them properly. Dinos Kallaniotis is a master of the art; he’s been making sandals in his small basement workshop since 1975, and he’s on hand to make final adjustments so that his footwear suits your feet.

The workshop of Liza Sarigiannidis in nearby Psyrri is another delight, home to a trove of handmade hats ranging from voluminous straw affairs to chic Panamas and nautical caps. The milliner is carrying on a business that was started by her father in the 1960s; this is evident from the dozens of molds and shapers (some of which date back more than 50 years), presses and early 20th-century sewing machines that are on display.